Custom Painting – Gunpla Builders World Cup Prep Series Part 2

Have you ever looked at a painted Gunpla and wondered how builders achieve that sharp, custom look? Painting transforms a kit from a simple plastic model into a display piece worthy of a shelf.

As the Gunpla Builders World Cup (GBWC) approaches, mastering painting techniques can give your Gunpla a competitive edge. Plus, painting is a rewarding way to express your creativity, add realism, and mask mould imperfections.

This post will mainly cover beginner friendly hand painting techniques, but also touch on spray cans and airbrushing briefly, as they can be a little difficult when first starting out on this journey.

Why Paint Your Gunpla?

Bandai Kits come moulded in colours, but can leave you feeling like something is missing. The models can look different from the pictures on the boxes. Painting your kits can really improve the colour accuracy of the kit.

If you are modifying kits or struggling to remove the stressed plastic marks, painting can be a great way to correct or hide those areas. Sometimes, a simple layer of primer or a base colour can draw your eye away from perceived problem areas (rough surfaces or mould lines).

Painting is also a doorway for exploration, after all, Gunpla is a canvas as well. The customisation you can achieve with painting your kits can be almost limitless. It’s a great outlet for creative expression, which is especially useful for competition entries and photography.

Tools and Setup You’ll Need

Let's get into the tools I have used for painting. The basic tools I use for this process are some Clips and stands (Alligator Clips)  Brushes (Godhand Paintbrushes) Paints (Acrylic, Lacquer, Enamel) Thinner Auto Levelling Thinner (appropriate to the paint type) and Primers.

• Acrylic paints are water-based, dry quickly, and are easy to clean, making them beginner-friendly. 

• Lacquer paints are solvent-based, dry fast with a durable finish, and often produce a smooth, professional look. 

• Enamel paints are oil-based, requiring longer drying times, and provide a hard, glossy, and durable coat.

It also pays to keep some clear coat available (I prefer a semi gloss lacquer) to form a protective layer when using spray cans or airbrushes. That way, if you are correcting overspray issues, you have less chance of ruining the painting you have already done.

Safety note: Work in a well-ventilated area when painting. Use proper protective gear as needed.

The Three Main Painting Methods

Now that we know the tools and differences in paints, let's get into the techniques. 

Hand Painting

Hand painting is the easiest and best way to begin. It's easy to start and very affordable. Acrylic paints are the go to for this method as they are easy to work with and clean up. You don’t need thinners for these paints, as you can get the consistency you are after by mixing them with water. 

All you need is a set of paintbrushes (here are the brushes I use GodHand brushes), some acrylic paint and some water. The key to good hand painting is applying multiple thin coats on the part. The aim shouldn't be to get the rich colour from the outset; this will often result in too much paint and uneven coverage. It will generally take me 2-3 light coats to get good coverage on the part.

I will mention that I have been recently using the Mr Hobby Auto leveling thinner and can highly recommend its use for hand painting, as it makes the paint settle easier on the part you are painting.

Patience is key with hand painting. I recommend setting up multiple pieces to work on at a time, or colour batching can be a great way to set up a painting session. That way, light coats can be done on many pieces and by the time you finish them all, you can start a second coat.

Hand painting is a great way to build your confidence and experiment with creativity. There are still elements of my kits that I hand paint to this day to ensure I get the finish I want.

Spray Cans (intermediate)

Spray cans are the step between hand painting and airbrushing. They are very useful for large armour pieces or simple body paint jobs. They can give you a decent finish without the need for an airbrush and provide good coverage on parts when painting.

There is a little bit more preparation to ensure the paint job lasts longer, and this is where priming your piece can assist with paint adhesion. If you plan to handle your kit after painting it for poses, etc, priming will help the paint adhere after spraying. 

A couple of pointers for using spray cans. Shake the can well before use to ensure the paint atomises well when spraying. Spray in short bursts about a hand span distance away from your piece and start away from the piece if possible. 

If possible, have some test pieces handy to assist with distances. Get the feel for how close or far from the parts you are spraying to ensure you are happy with the coverage of paint and the finish. Experiment with the process and learn what works for you.

Airbrushing (advanced)

Airbrushes are one of the best ways to paint kits for colour changes, transitions and colour control. There is a steep learning curve in using them, but once you are comfortable with the processes, it becomes relatively easy to paint your gunpla.

I won't go into the tools, as there are numerous setups you can get; however, there are some fundamentals that I can share from my experience. 

Thinning your paints is essential for airbrushing. Most paints should be thinned at a 1:1 ratio of paint to thinner, but can be adjusted to get the required consistency. This can be done in small batches or large bottles, depending on your projects. Once thinned, it will always be essential to trial the paint in the airbrush to see how it performs.

Always start at a low pressure (around 15 psi) and work up, depending on the thickness of your paint after thinning, and always thoroughly clean your airbrush between colour changes to ensure colour consistency.

The Importance of Priming

Priming your model before painting is highly recommended for several reasons. It provides a better surface for your paint to adhere to and helps identify imperfections like scratches or seam lines that might otherwise be hidden.

Older kits may have mould release oils on them, which can prevent primer and paint from sticking properly. A thorough wash of the parts with soap and water typically removes these oils. If you’re sanding the parts, that process will usually be enough to eliminate any residue.

Primers come in various colours, and your choice can significantly influence the final look of your paint. Grey primers are neutral and excellent for spotting errors and blemishes. Be aware that colours like yellow or red over grey primer may appear more muted or take on a mustard tint. For bright colours, white or pink primers are often preferable as they help colours pop. Black primers are especially useful for shading techniques and metallic finishes.

Masking and Colour Separation Techniques

Masking is one of the most meticulous yet rewarding techniques you'll learn in painting. It allows for precise colour separation and complex designs. Masking tape is very effective for covering large areas, creating patterns like chevron or camouflage, and protecting certain parts from overspray. It’s easy to apply and cut with a sharp hobby knife, making it extremely versatile.

To prevent bleed-through, always press down the edges of your tape firmly. This ensures clean lines and prevents paint from seeping under the tape when applying subsequent colours. For more intricate designs or liquid masking, additional masking products are available and can provide even sharper edges.

Finishing Touches - Top Coats

Top coats are essential for sealing and protecting your paintwork. They create a thin, clear layer that prepares your model for further detailing like panel lining, decals, or additional painting.

The best application methods are using an airbrush or spray can, which provide smooth and even coverage. 

Top coats come in three main types: 

• Gloss: Ideal for applying decals or panel lining, as they help decals adhere smoothly and prevent silvering.

• Matte/Flat: Provides a realistic, non-reflective finish and is often used at the final stage.

• Semi-gloss: Offers a balanced sheen, suitable if you’re unsure which finish to select.

Since this is typically the final step, patience is key. Avoid rushing. Testing pieces too early can cause fingerprints or smudges. Apply even coats, let each layer dry thoroughly, then check if additional coats are needed before proceeding.

Painting your Gunpla doesn't have to be intimidating. Start small, build your confidence and remember - every painted kit is a step forward to mastering your own style.  With a bit of practice and patience, you can get your kits looking cleaner, more professional and ready for the spotlight at GBWC.

For more tips and tricks, follow me on socials @rosie_custom_gunpla