Tamiya 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M3 Type 22 Zero Build Review

TL;DR: The Tamiya 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M3 Type 22 Zero remains an excellent aircraft model kit, even 15 years after its release. In this build, Gary Wickham (Scalespot-Models) keeps the project mostly out of the box, focusing on careful cockpit painting, painted markings, lacquer paintwork, chipping, panel line washes, and restrained weathering to create a realistic Pacific theatre Zero.

 

Released in 2010, this 1/48 kit from Tamiya still stands strong 15 years later. True to Tamiya’s reputation, the build features exceptional engineering, with parts fitting together seamlessly.

This was a quick build for a local club event, finished in just under two weeks. Thanks to lacquer paints and fast-curing super glue, I was able to keep up the quality while hitting the deadline.

With build competitions like the Tamiya Battle of the Builds, this Tamiya A6M3 Type 22 Zero is a perfect example of how a clean, considered aircraft build can make a real impact. Whether you are planning your own Tamiya aircraft model, armour kit, car build, or custom project, this build shows that thoughtful preparation, strong fundamentals, and careful finishing can go a long way.

The Mitsubishi A6M3 Type 22 Zero

The A6M3 Type 22 Zero was a refined version of Japan’s iconic Mitsubishi fighter, introduced in early 1943. It restored the long wingspan of earlier models after the clipped-wing Type 32, helping improve manoeuvrability and range.

Equipped with the upgraded Sakae 21 engine and improved armament, the Type 22 struck a balance between agility and endurance, making it well suited for long-distance operations across the Pacific.

It served effectively in several key battles, although by this stage of the war it was increasingly being outclassed by faster and better-armed Allied fighters.

Inside the box, Tamiya includes a useful flyer that clearly explains the key differences between the major variants of the A6M Zero family. This informative guide helps modelers and enthusiasts understand how each version evolved in terms of design, armament, and performance characteristics. 

Tamiya’s commitment to accuracy and historical detail is reflected not only in the quality of the kits but also in this comprehensive comparison.

To date, Tamiya has released highly detailed model kits of all the major A6M Zero variants in 1/48 and 1/32 scales. These kits cover everything from the early Model 21 versions through to the later, more robust Model 52 and beyond. 

Each kit is carefully engineered to capture the unique features of its specific variant, such as differences in wing shape, engine cowling, armament layout, and structural reinforcements, making them popular choices for both casual builders and serious scale modellers interested in this iconic fighter.

Build Start: Keeping It Mostly Out of the Box

Given the tight deadline for this build, I made an early decision to stick strictly to what was included in the box and avoid the temptation of aftermarket detail or correction sets.

Having built many 1/48 WWII aircraft kits over the years, I’ve learned that once the fuselage is closed up, very little of the interior remains visible.

That’s not an excuse to cut corners or neglect the cockpit. It is simply a practical reminder that expensive photo-etch, resin, or 3D-printed upgrades do not always add much value, especially on a well-engineered kit like this.

With thoughtful painting and detailing, modern Tamiya aircraft kits really do not need much extra to look impressive.

Painting the Cockpit Interior

The main interior was painted with AK Real Color RC306 IJN M3 (M) Mitsubishi Interior Green, applied over a black base coat. I’m a fan of the AK RC range; they’re lacquer-based and spray beautifully, even when heavily thinned. 

Staying true to the "out-of-the-box" approach, I even used the kit-supplied decals for the seat harness. While they look reasonably convincing from certain angles, it’s not a choice I’d make again, even under time pressure.

Trying AK Paint Marker Pens

This build gave me the opportunity to try AK’s paint marker pens for the first time.

I had heard positive things about them and decided to pick up a few commonly used colours. These markers dispense acrylic paint through a felt-tip-style applicator, making them ideal for small detail work.

To my surprise, they were significantly easier to use than a traditional brush for detailing cockpit elements such as switches, knobs, and control panels.

The control and accuracy made the process faster and more enjoyable, especially in tight areas. I was particularly impressed by the metallic shades, which gave a clean and realistic finish.

Overall, these pens have earned a permanent place on my workbench.

Instrument Panel Decals and a Backup Plan

Tamiya includes decals for the instrument panel, and my original intention was to use them straight from the box.

However, the decals were supplied as a single block rather than individual dials, which made precise placement more difficult. Once the decal softener was applied, the entire piece shattered into multiple fragments and became unusable.

Thankfully, I had a backup plan.

I used a combination of Mike Grant and AnyZ instrument decals, which proved to be a significant upgrade. The individual dials were sharper, easier to position accurately, and offered a much better level of detail than the kit-supplied option.

While it is always nice to stick with kit parts where possible, this was one case where aftermarket decals made a noticeable difference.

Cockpit Sidewalls and Final Interior Details

The sidewalls and main cockpit tub were completed using the same general approach as the rest of the interior. After the base colour was applied, I used a light enamel wash to enhance the depth and bring out the raised details. This not only added a sense of visual interest but also helped to convey a subtly weathered, field-worn appearance appropriate for a combat aircraft. The wash settled nicely into the recessed areas, giving a natural shadow effect and helping to break up the otherwise uniform finish.

All of the detail painting you see in this section, including switches, buttons, and various small cockpit features, was done using the AK Real Color paint markers. Despite some initial scepticism, I was genuinely impressed by the level of control and precision these felt-tip applicators offered. 

Even on fine details, the markers allowed for clean, accurate application without the mess or fuss often associated with using a fine paintbrush.

Using Black CA Glue for Assembly and Seam Work

One product that has become a regular part of my toolkit is black CA glue.

It is incredibly versatile, working not only as a strong adhesive but also as an excellent filler. The black pigment makes it much easier to see during application and sanding, which is a real advantage when working on fine seams or panel joints.

Unlike traditional putties or fillers, it sands cleanly and feathers out well, making it ideal for precision work.

For this build, I decided to push its utility further. Instead of using my usual polystyrene liquid cement to join the main fuselage halves, I used black CA glue for the primary assembly.

The quicker set time helped speed up the build, which was important given the deadline.

I also wanted to test whether CA glue could help reduce the risk of ghost seams appearing later under paint. Since CA cures chemically rather than through solvent evaporation, it can provide a more stable bond in areas where long-term seam shrinkage might be a concern.

Using Black CA Glue for Assembly and Seam Work

One product that has become a regular part of my toolkit is black CA glue.

It is incredibly versatile, working not only as a strong adhesive but also as an excellent filler. The black pigment makes it much easier to see during application and sanding, which is a real advantage when working on fine seams or panel joints.

Unlike traditional putties or fillers, it sands cleanly and feathers out well, making it ideal for precision work.

For this build, I decided to push its utility further. Instead of using my usual polystyrene liquid cement to join the main fuselage halves, I used black CA glue for the primary assembly.

The quicker set time helped speed up the build, which was important given the deadline.

I also wanted to test whether CA glue could help reduce the risk of ghost seams appearing later under paint. Since CA cures chemically rather than through solvent evaporation, it can provide a more stable bond in areas where long-term seam shrinkage might be a concern.

The Nakajima Sakae 21 Engine

The Nakajima Sakae 21 was a 14-cylinder radial engine producing around 1,130 hp. It was used in later A6M Zero variants such as the A6M3 and A6M5.

With a two-speed supercharger, it offered improved altitude performance while remaining compact and reliable, both of which were important to the Zero’s agility.

The engine supplied in the Tamiya kit is nicely detailed straight from the box, especially in 1/48 scale. The cooling fins are finely moulded and more than sufficient for the scale.

For painting, I followed the kit instructions rather than spending extra time researching exact historical finishes. Very little of the engine is visible once the cowling is installed, so in this case, efficiency made sense.

Propeller, Spinner and Engine Components

The engine, propeller, and spinner came together quickly during the build. For these components, I primarily used Mr. Color lacquer paints, as Gunze’s range includes several highly accurate colours tailored for Japanese aircraft, such as C131 Propeller Color and C125 Cowling Color. 

For the natural metal finishes on the spinner and propeller blades, I turned to the Mr. Color Super Metallic range, which offers a convincing and smooth metallic sheen that's ideal for smaller-scale components.

Chipping the Cowling and Weathered Components

Most wartime photos of IJN aircraft show them in a heavily weathered state. This was largely due to the harsh conditions across the Pacific islands, where intense sun, humidity, and rough operational environments caused visible paint wear, fading, and chipping.

To replicate this effect, I used a chipping technique designed to mimic surface wear.

The process begins with a base coat of silver, followed by a water-soluble chipping fluid or hairspray layer. This acts as a barrier between the base coat and top coat.

After applying the final colour and allowing it to dry, I used a damp brush to gently remove selected areas of the top layer, revealing the silver beneath.

While the concept is straightforward, achieving a natural and convincing look can be tricky; the results are often a bit unpredictable and definitely require some practice to control effectively.

Landing Gear and External Components

These days, I prefer to work on external components such as ordnance and landing gear earlier in the build rather than leaving everything until the end.

As expected from Tamiya, the fit and alignment of the undercarriage parts were excellent, making assembly smooth and stress-free.

For painting, I followed the kit recommendations and finished the gear door interiors with Mr. Color C57 Metallic Blue-Green.

I have since learned that Zeros produced at the Mitsubishi factory typically had their gear bays and door interiors painted in the same colour as the aircraft exterior rather than blue-green primer. That is something I will keep in mind for my next Zero build.

Canopy Masking and Digital Templates

Shifting focus back to the fuselage assembly, it was time to paint and install the canopy and windshield. While Tamiya thoughtfully includes masking material in the kit, the masks themselves are not pre-cut. Rather than attempt to trace and cut them by hand, I scanned the provided mask sheet and used Inkscape along with Silhouette Studio to create precise digital templates, which I then cut using my Silhouette Portrait 3. 

An added benefit of this extra step was the ability to cut two full sets, one for the exterior and one for the interior surfaces of the canopy. Plus, I now have a ready-to-use digital mask file for any future Tamiya A6M3 or A6M5 builds, saving time down the line.

Main Airframe Assembly

As expected from a relatively modern Tamiya tooling, the fit of the kit is exceptional. Everything comes together beautifully. I used black CA glue to assemble the wing halves, then attached the completed wing section to the fuselage by running a few drops of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement along the wing root joint.

The tailplanes feature a solid interlocking design, which makes alignment easy and reliable. A light coat of grey primer was applied to check for any remaining seams or gaps. The wingtip navigation lights were fitted, painted clear red and green, and then carefully masked in preparation for the main painting stage.

Small Modification: Posing the Elevators

Since I was running slightly ahead of schedule, I took the opportunity to make a small modification while working on the horizontal stabilisers. I removed the elevators and posed them in a relaxed, neutral position. Fortunately, on the Zero, the fabric-covered elevators are separated by a clean, straight join, making this a simple and quick adjustment.

The only area that needed more attention was the joint between the wing assembly and the rear fuselage. There was a noticeable step at the seam, which disrupted the smooth profile of the airframe.

To correct this, I used a combination of black CA glue and Tamiya Basic Putty to blend the surfaces. Once levelled and sanded, I carefully re-scribed the panel lines and re-added the rivet detail to match the surrounding surface.

Black Primer and Pre-Shading

With assembly complete, I applied a full coat of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black across the entire airframe. To add visual interest and break up the lower surfaces, I sprayed a variety of contrasting colours on selected panels. I have used this technique before with good results, and the undersides felt like the ideal area to experiment with it again.

Since the upper surfaces would eventually be covered with a dark green topcoat, I knew any contrast there would mostly be lost. Instead, I focused on areas where I planned to add paint chipping, particularly around the wing leading edges and wing roots. This meant the underlying tones could contribute to the weathered effect once the final layers were applied.

Painting With Decanted Tamiya Lacquer Paints

As is typical with Tamiya kits, the painting instructions reference colours from Tamiya’s own product lines, including both spray cans and bottled acrylics. While this ensures compatibility within the Tamiya system, it can feel limiting if you prefer airbrushing or use other paint brands.

I have found Tamiya AS and TS lacquer spray paints to be excellent in terms of colour accuracy, coverage, and durability. The main drawback is the lack of control when using them directly from the can.

Fortunately, there is a simple workaround: the paint can be decanted from the aerosol can into a container for airbrush use. This allows you to keep the benefits of Tamiya’s lacquer paint while gaining the control and finesse of an airbrush. Once thinned properly, the decanted paint sprays beautifully.

Choosing the Box Art Marking Option

The kit includes three marking options, each representing a different aircraft and period in the Zero’s operational history.

The subject that caught my attention was the aircraft featured on the box art: a Mitsubishi A6M3 Zero flown by Japanese ace Hiroyoshi Nishizawa during operations in the Solomon Islands in 1943.

What appealed to me most was the distinctive field-applied dark green upper surface camouflage, hastily applied over the original grey. This rough and improvised finish gives the aircraft a rugged, combat-worn look and works especially well in 1/48 scale. It also creates a great opportunity for expressive painting, subtle weathering, and tonal variation.

Base Colour: Tamiya AS-29 Gray Green

First in the painting process was Tamiya AS-29 Gray Green, which serves as the primary colour for the entire airframe. This shade represents the factory-applied colour commonly seen on early-war Mitsubishi-built Zeros. It has a subtle greenish tint that can appear more grey or green depending on the lighting, making it a visually interesting base for later weathering.

Historically, as the war progressed across the Pacific theatre, Japanese squadrons began applying dark green camouflage to the upper surfaces of their aircraft in the field. These finishes were often applied quickly by ground crews using brushes or spray guns, resulting in irregular coverage, visible brush marks, overspray, and patchy edges.

That improvised look adds a lot of character to the model and gives modellers plenty of room to experiment with layered paintwork and chipping effects.

Building Thin Layers With the Airbrush

The advantages of decanting spray paints like AS-29 become clear when applying thin, controlled layers. Using an airbrush makes it easier to preserve the underlying pre-shading and tonal variation. At this stage, the key is to build the colour gradually so the earlier work is not completely covered.

The colours may appear slightly bold at first, but I expect them to blend more naturally once washes and weathering are applied later.

Painting the Hinomaru and Leading-Edge Markings

Before applying the dark green top coat, Tamiya’s painting and decal guide suggests applying the decals for the yellow wing leading-edge identification markings and the red Hinomaru markings. While the kit supplies decals for these elements, I chose to mask and paint them instead.

Painted markings offer several advantages. They integrate better with the rest of the paintwork, can be chipped and weathered naturally, and avoid common issues with large decals such as silvering or poor conformity over panel lines. It also gives more control over the final appearance.

Creating Custom Masks

Using the kit decals as size references, I created circular masks to replicate the Hinomaru markings on the wings and fuselage sides. This ensured the painted markings matched the dimensions and placement of the original decal layout.

The masks were cut using a Silhouette Portrait 3, which allowed for consistent and accurate circles in multiple sizes. For smooth, flat surfaces, I prefer vinyl masking material. It adheres cleanly, reduces the risk of paint bleed, and produces crisper edges than paper or low-tack masking tape. Vinyl is also easy to reposition, which helps with precise alignment before painting.

Applying the Field-Applied Dark Green Camouflage

With the main markings in place, I moved on to the rough field-applied dark green camouflage on the upper surfaces. Tamiya recommends AS-21 Dark Green 2 or XF-70, but after testing AS-21, I found it appeared too dark for the look I wanted.

Being something of a model paint “bower bird,” I looked through my collection and found Mr. Color C124 Dark Green Mitsubishi, which looked closer to my reference.

I thinned it with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and applied it with an Iwata Eclipse 0.3mm airbrush in a deliberately random, blotchy pattern to replicate the uneven finish seen on wartime Zeros.

Chipping the Main Paintwork

Not all markings could be painted with masks, so finer details such as the red warning lines along the wing trailing edges and most of the stencils were added using the kit decals.

Before moving on to the wing decals, I completed the paint chipping I had prepared earlier with a hairspray layer.

Using a brush dipped in water, I softened the hairspray layer and carefully worked over the surface with a toothpick to chip away the AS-29 and dark green layers. The aim was to create a look that felt intentional but still naturally random, similar to the wear patterns seen on operational aircraft.

Light surface wear and fine scratches were also added with a fine sanding sponge of 1000 grit or higher. With this type of weathering, it is best to work gradually, keep checking the effect, and know when to stop.

Tail Codes and Kit Decals

For the tail codes, I used the Tamiya kit decals rather than creating masks. Replicating the fine white outline around the yellow “105” would have taken more time than I had available.

As is typical with Tamiya, the decals were on the thicker side, so I used a strong decal softener to help them conform.

Fortunately, the mostly flat surfaces of the tail and rudder made the application fairly straightforward.

Ready for Washes and Weathering

With the major painting and markings complete, the Zero was really starting to come to life on the bench. I was pleased with how the finish had turned out so far. Everything had gone smoothly, with no unexpected setbacks or problem areas.

At this stage, the paintwork still looked a little too flat and uniform. That was not a concern, as I knew the upcoming panel wash and weathering stages would add depth, bring out the panel lines and rivets, and tie the painted elements together.

Wheel Wells and Metallic Blue-Green

In the past, I usually painted and masked the wheel wells early in the build before applying the main airframe colours.

Recently, I noticed other modellers leaving this step until the end, and it made sense. Masking the outer edges of a wheel well is much easier than trying to mask the entire interior.

Following Tamiya’s instructions, the wheel wells and landing flap interiors were finished in Japanese metallic blue-green primer.

Gunze offers this shade as Mr. Color C57 Metallic Blue-Green, a translucent paint that benefits from a bright metallic base. I applied Mr. Color SM201 Super Fine Silver 2 before spraying the C57 to achieve a richer finish.

Since completing the model, I have had feedback that Mitsubishi-built Zeros often had wheel wells and flaps finished in the same colour as the airframe. Something for next time.

Panel Line Washes and Surface Preparation

With painting finally wrapped up, the model looked predictably too pristine.

I have always enjoyed the transformation that happens during the weathering stage, when washes and grime start to breathe life into the airframe. This is the point where a painted model begins to shift from “miniature” to something that feels like a scaled-down machine with history and wear.

For me, post-paint washes are one of the most satisfying parts of a build. Each pass adds depth, contrast, and a subtle sense of use. Of course, this process only works well if the groundwork has been done properly. A well-prepared surface with clean panel lines and restored recessed detail will take a wash beautifully.

Skip that prep work, and the wash will highlight every shortcut.

Choosing Wash Colours

More than any other stage in model building, the “weathering” phase is, for me, a matter of instinct. It’s not something you can approach with a rigid formula, the ideal wash for one base color may not work for another. I’ve found that using at least two, and often three, different wash shades brings far more life and depth to the finish than relying on a single tone. 

Since this build used lacquer paints with painted-on markings, I skipped the usual gloss clear coat and applied the enamel washes directly over the paint. Lacquers are tough enough to handle enamel products and gentle clean-up with white spirit without any risk.

For this model, I used three shades of Tamiya Panel Liner: Dark Brown, Dark Grey, and a restrained touch of Black in select areas. It’s interesting to note that those high-contrast pre-shaded panels on the undersides are now far more prominent after the wash, with the subtle red and blue tones being the most noticeable.

Weathering the Dark Green Upper Surfaces

For the dark green upper surfaces, I used a slightly darker wash to create visible contrast without overpowering the paintwork. It is common for modellers to reach straight for pure black panel line washes, but in my experience, this can produce an overly harsh effect. Panel lines and rivets can end up standing out too strongly and distracting from the overall finish.

The goal with weathering is not to make every detail shout for attention. Instead, recessed surface detail should play a supporting role, subtly adding realism without becoming the main focus. By using a more muted wash tone, the panel lines blend more naturally with the paintwork while still adding depth and interest.

Close-Up Weathering Results

Here are some close-up shots showing how much a well-executed panel wash can improve the finish of a model.

A small amount of carefully applied wash can dramatically enhance the surface depth and dimensionality. By settling into the recessed panel lines and details, the wash creates subtle shadows that bring out contours and texture.

This helps transform flat paintwork into something more three-dimensional and realistic.

Final Assembly

The final assembly stage involved carefully attaching the smaller sub-assemblies, including the engine and cowling, undercarriage, and centreline drop tank.

Thanks to Tamiya’s engineering, each component snapped into place cleanly with excellent alignment. This phase was smooth and satisfying, and it reinforced why Tamiya aircraft kits are such a pleasure to build.

Bringing everything together so neatly was a rewarding way to finish what had been a fast but thoroughly enjoyable project.

Key Takeaways

• The Tamiya 1/48 A6M3 Type 22 Zero still holds up extremely well.

• A mostly out-of-the-box build can still look excellent with careful painting and weathering.

• Painted markings help create a more realistic and integrated finish than large decals.

• Black CA glue can be useful for both assembly and seam filling.

• Lacquer paints are ideal for fast builds because they dry quickly and handle weathering well.

• Chipping and panel washes should be built up gradually for a more natural result.

• Not every detail needs aftermarket upgrades, especially on a well-engineered Tamiya kit.

• Good surface preparation makes washes and weathering far more effective.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Tamiya 1/48 A6M3 Type 22 Zero a good kit?

Yes. The Tamiya 1/48 A6M3 Type 22 Zero is a very strong aircraft model kit with excellent fit, clean engineering, and enough detail for an impressive out-of-the-box build.

Is this kit suitable for intermediate modellers?

Yes. The kit is approachable enough for modellers with some aircraft kit experience, but it also offers plenty of room for advanced painting, masking, chipping, and weathering techniques.

Do you need aftermarket parts for this build?

Not necessarily. This build shows that the kit can produce an excellent result mostly out of the box. Aftermarket instrument decals were used after the kit decal failed, but the overall project remained largely kit-based.

Why paint the Hinomaru markings instead of using decals?

Painted markings sit more naturally on the model, avoid silvering, and can be chipped and weathered along with the rest of the paintwork. This helps create a more realistic and cohesive finish.

What paints were used on the Tamiya A6M3 Zero?

The build used a mix of lacquer paints, including AK Real Color, Mr. Color, and decanted Tamiya AS spray paints. Key colours included Mitsubishi Interior Green, Tamiya AS-29 Gray Green, Mr. Color C124 Dark Green Mitsubishi, and Mr. Color C57 Metallic Blue-Green.

What is the best way to weather a Japanese WWII aircraft model?

Start with reference photos, then build the weathering slowly. Chipping, fading, panel line washes, and subtle surface scratches can all help, but the key is restraint. Work gradually and stop before the effect becomes too heavy.

Can this build inspire a Battle of the Builds entry?

Definitely. The project is a strong example of how clean assembly, thoughtful painting, and controlled weathering can turn a straightforward aircraft kit into a competition-ready display model.

Final Thoughts

The Tamiya 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M3 Type 22 Zero remains a rewarding aircraft model kit, even years after its original release. It fits beautifully, offers enough detail straight from the box, and gives modellers plenty of opportunity to experiment with paint, markings, chipping, and weathering.

This build came together quickly, but it never felt rushed in the areas that mattered. With careful planning, reliable lacquer paints, painted markings, and restrained weathering, the finished Zero has the worn, operational character I wanted.

For aircraft modellers, WWII aviation fans, or anyone looking for a strong project, the Tamiya 1/48 A6M3 Type 22 Zero is a kit well worth considering.

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