Heller 1/24 Bentley 4.5L Blower Build Review
Few pre-war racing cars are as instantly recognisable as the supercharged Bentley 4½ Litre, better known as the Bentley Blower. Its long bonnet, external exhaust, mesh-covered headlights and prominent front-mounted supercharger make it a fantastic subject for a scale model.
In this build, I take on the Heller 1/24 Bentley Blower, using several shades of green, metallic finishes and some straightforward detailing techniques to bring this historic British racing car to life.
TL;DR
The Heller 1/24 Bentley Blower builds into an impressive model with excellent period character. The engine, supercharger, chassis and interior offer plenty of detailing opportunities, while the combination of green bodywork and chrome creates a striking finished model.
Most of the parts fit well, although the steering assembly and mudguard supports require careful handling. I would recommend this kit to modellers who have already completed a couple of car kits and are comfortable working with delicate components.
The Story Behind the Bentley Blower
The Bentley 4½ Litre was introduced in 1927 and remained in production until 1931, when Bentley Motors was acquired by Rolls-Royce.
Racing driver Sir Henry “Tim” Birkin believed supercharging was the best way to make the car faster. Working with engineer Amherst Villiers, Birkin developed a supercharged version with a large Roots-type supercharger mounted prominently ahead of the radiator.
W.O. Bentley preferred increasing engine capacity and reportedly disapproved of Birkin’s approach. Nevertheless, Birkin secured financial backing from the Honourable Dorothy Paget, allowing a limited number of supercharged cars to be produced, including four competition cars.
It is important to distinguish these cars from Bentley’s famous result at the 1929 24 Hours of Le Mans. That race was won by the naturally aspirated Bentley Speed Six of Woolf Barnato and Tim Birkin, followed by three Bentley 4½ Litres for a remarkable 1-2-3-4 finish.
The supercharged Blower competed at Le Mans in 1930. Although it did not finish, Birkin’s aggressive battle with the leading Mercedes-Benz became one of the most celebrated episodes in Bentley’s racing history.
What Is Included in the Heller Kit?
The Heller Bentley Blower is moulded primarily in white plastic and includes solid rubber tyres, a bright chrome-plated sprue, clear parts and a small decal sheet.
Inside the box, you will find components for the:
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Four-cylinder engine
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Front-mounted supercharger
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Separate gearbox and driveshaft
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Fuel tank
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Ladder chassis
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Front and rear suspension
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Interior and instrument panel
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Two-piece body
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Wheels, mudguards and lights
The parts provide a good foundation for additional painting and detailing without requiring extensive modification.
Building the Engine and Supercharger
Construction begins with the engine block.
The two block halves, sump, rocker cover and clutch assembly come together before the magnetos and other accessories are attached. I painted the engine components with Vallejo Metal Color Dark Aluminium to give them an appropriate metallic finish.
The Blower’s distinctive supercharger is assembled from four parts. On the original car, Amherst Villiers’ Roots-type supercharger was driven from the crankshaft and supplied by two SU carburettors. Compressed air was then delivered to the engine through an intake manifold.
The completed assembly creates an impressive amount of mechanical detail at the front of the model.
Gearbox, Fuel Tank and Chassis
The separately housed gearbox is assembled around the driveshaft and can then be set aside until the chassis is ready.
Eight parts make up the fuel tank, which forms a prominent part of the rear of the vehicle.
Take particular care when removing the chassis rails from the sprue. The rounded fairings at the front of each rail can easily be mistaken for sprue attachment points, but they are required for mounting the large headlights later in the build.
Careful cutting and gradual clean-up are much safer than trying to remove the parts in one cut.
Painting and Installing the Drivetrain
For the car’s main colour, I chose to airbrush SMS Premium Deep Brunswick.
Once the chassis was assembled, I painted it in the same deep Brunswick green before installing the engine, drivetrain and differential.
Using the same main colour across the body and chassis gives the finished model a cohesive appearance, while the metallic engine and chrome components provide plenty of visual contrast.
Detailing the Exhaust and Heat Wrapping
The exhaust contains a noticeable cavity on the concealed side of the muffler. I filled this using Milliput Black two-part epoxy putty.
Milliput is useful for this type of work because it can be shaped while soft and sanded or drilled after curing. It also has very little shrinkage.
I painted the exhaust in Vallejo Game Color Metallic Chainmail, followed by a light over-brushing of Vallejo Game Color Corrosion. This produced a convincing heat-stained and lightly weathered finish.
The original car used insulating lagging around part of the exhaust pipe. I represented this by wrapping the pipe with a narrow strip of Tamiya 2mm Masking Tape, then painting it with Vallejo Model Air Aged White.
This is a simple detail, but it adds considerable character to the exposed exhaust system.
Front Axle and Steering
The next stage covers the front axle and worm-and-sector steering mechanism.
The kit allows the front wheels to remain steerable. The instructions require the ends of certain locating pins to be carefully heat-formed so the moving components remain connected.
This stage is quite fiddly. If you attempt it, use a controlled modelling tool, work in a well-ventilated area and keep open flames away from plastic, paints and adhesives. Follow Heller’s instructions carefully.
Although I managed to retain the working steering, I would probably glue the front wheels into a fixed position if I built the kit again. This would make the assembly easier and reduce the chance of damaging the delicate components.
Painting the Instrument Panel
The kit does not provide decals for the instrument panel, but the raised details respond well to dry-brushing.
I placed a small amount of white paint on a brush, then removed almost all of it using a paper towel. I lightly dragged the brush across the raised instrument faces until the numbers, needles and surrounding details became visible.
The important part is to use very little paint. Several light passes give you much more control than one heavy application.
Assembling the Coachwork
The main body is supplied in two halves, leaving a centreline seam behind the bonnet once the pieces are joined.
I filled the seam with a mixture of cyanoacrylate glue and talcum powder. The powder slows the curing process slightly and gives the adhesive more body, producing a strong filler that does not shrink.
If using this technique, avoid breathing the powder or adhesive fumes, wear appropriate protection and work in a well-ventilated area.
Once the filler had cured, I smoothed the joint with several grades of GodHand Kamiyasu sanding sticks.
The repair turned out well, although the joint is largely concealed after the stone guard is installed in front of the two windscreens.
Painting the Seats and Interior
In my reference photographs, there was not much tonal difference between the exterior bodywork, seats and interior side panels.
I decided to mix several related shades of green to create more visual interest while keeping the appearance believable.
For the seats, I mixed approximately two parts SMS Deep Brunswick with one part SMS Premium Green.
I used a similar mixture on the interior side panels, adding one part SMS Premium Lichtgrün RLM 82 to produce a slightly lighter shade.
For the folded canvas roof around the rear seat, I used SMS Premium Schwarzgrün RLM 70.
The subtle colour differences help separate the individual materials without making the interior look overly colourful.
Final Assembly and Decals
To complete the model, I added the four road wheels, spare wheel, mudguards, windscreens and lights.
The small decal sheet includes:
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Two Union Jack flags
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Two racing number eight decals
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Two registration plates
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A winged Bentley badge for the front grille
The registration plates are a nice reminder that the Bentley team drove its racing cars from the factory in England to Le Mans and back again on public roads.
There are no decals for the number eight on the front grille or rear fuel tank. Instead, the outlines are embossed into the parts and must be carefully painted.
I expected this to be difficult, but the raised outlines made the process more manageable than anticipated. With a fine brush and a steady hand, the finished numbers look quite effective.
The mudguards and steering assembly contain several thin attachment points. I used cyanoacrylate glue to secure the mudguards, but they remain delicate even after installation. The finished model should therefore be handled by the chassis rather than by the mudguards or running boards.
Final Verdict
The Heller 1/24 Bentley Blower builds into a very fine-looking model of an iconic pre-war racing car.
The combination of chrome, metallic components and several shades of deep green works particularly well. The prominent supercharger, external exhaust and large headlights give the finished model a character that is completely different from that of a modern racing car.
Most parts fit well, although the steering mechanism, mudguards and their attachment points require patience. Because of these delicate areas, I believe the kit is best suited to someone who has already completed a couple of model cars.
For builders who enjoy classic vehicles, exposed mechanical detail and historically significant subjects, the Bentley Blower is a rewarding project.
And with Heller, there is plenty more to choose from.
Products Used in This Build
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Heller Bentley Blower suitable for beginners?
The kit is achievable for a patient builder, but its delicate steering and mudguard components make it better suited to someone who has already completed two or three model car kits.
Can the front wheels remain steerable?
Yes. The kit includes a working steering arrangement, although assembling it can be fiddly. Builders who prefer a stronger and simpler result can fix the wheels in their chosen position.
What colour is the Bentley Blower?
The historic racing cars are strongly associated with British racing green. For this build, I used SMS Premium Deep Brunswick and mixed related green shades for the seats and interior.
Does the kit include instrument-panel decals?
No. However, the raised instrument details can be brought out effectively using a careful dry-brushing technique.
Does the Heller kit include the racing numbers?
The decal sheet includes racing number eight decals for parts of the model. The numbers on the grille and rear fuel tank are embossed into the plastic and need to be painted.
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